Author and podcast host Bjørn Harvig has wandered the world on foot and by bike, embracing the unexpected. He prefers to travel without a plan, letting serendipity guide him to the small, magical moments that make every journey unforgettable. This story is no different. It offers a glimpse into the unplanned adventures of a "Denmark Expedition" shared with his two children, Bille and Vibe. Together, they discovered the beauty of the unknown and the joy of simply being present.
"Where are you planning to sleep tonight?" asks a kind and curious man. We're sitting on a bench under a large tree, east of Herning, near the heathlands. We stretch our tired legs and sip on some cordial. Behind us, in the courtyard, stands a large white building, presumably the old farmhouse.
We unpack a small lunch from our bike bags, and soon, more people emerge from the building. One explains that we're welcome to rest there, but he also tells us the farmhouse serves as a care home for people in need of support and kindness. He brings us some biscuits and more cordial. Shortly after, a resident offers us cold sodas.
"Where are you headed, and where do you plan to spend the night?" he asks.
"We figure it out as we go," replies Bille, my 12-year-old son and a seasoned world cyclist for his age. At just 8 years old, he cycled from Denmark to Finland. At 9, he pedaled through Portugal and Spain for three months. The following year, we crisscrossed the Alps over several weeks.
His younger sister, 9-year-old Vibe, adds, "When we’re too tired to bike any further, we just pitch the tent or find a shelter. Ideally near a lake, so we can take an evening swim." This is her first cycling expedition on her own bike. On earlier trips, she served as the "expedition leader," sitting in front of my cargo bike with a clear view of the route and enough snacks to keep morale high among the crew.
The man is impressed, praising the kids for their adventurous spirit and wishing us good luck.
I’ve taken my incredible kids on what we call the "Denmark Expedition 2024." Our plan is to bike from the North Sea to Copenhagen, across the country and via Samsø, where their mom will meet us — she’s staying home for work. But, truth be told, the real plan is not to have much of a plan beyond biking west to east. Each morning, we map out the day’s route based on when we wake up and how the weather looks. Every stage evolves with the day’s unfolding events.
We embrace freedom and spontaneity, letting chance shape our journey. Shelters are found via an app in the afternoon, our bike bags carry just enough food, there’s plenty of candy, and we’ve got a deck of cards for our ongoing competition.
That’s the essence of this little trip: no tight schedules, no rigid plans. Experience has taught us that’s when the magic happens.
A day or two later, we reached Vrads. I’d heard of the picturesque old station town and probably should’ve aimed for it deliberately. But we hadn’t. We were all tired — even a bit cranky. I began wondering if we should wrap things up soon.
Vibe asked if I could put my hand on her shoulder to help her pedal a bit harder. We pushed through the hilly terrain when suddenly, a sign for Vrads appeared. Was the town here? I hadn’t realized. “Kids, ice cream on me at the top of the hill!” I called out, and they tackled the climb with renewed energy.
Soon, we arrived at the iconic Vrads café and general store. We treated ourselves to coffee and ice cream while the afternoon sun broke through, lifting everyone’s spirits. Two elderly women gave us a golden tip for the next part of the route: we hadn’t known we could bike along the old railway track!
The rest of the day was magical. No traffic, just stunning views of the rolling landscape — and the kids biked with their arms raised triumphantly.
The next day, we stood at the base of the Himmelbjerget stone tower. Imagine: we’d biked all the way here. Below us, the Gudenå River snaked through the valley. Tomorrow, we’d take the riverboat to Ry. The gravel path down toward the water twisted like a steep mountain road.
Vibe and I had already spotted a potential camping site for the night. “Let’s give it a try, Dad,” she said.
As we gazed over the beautiful landscape with Silkeborg visible in the distance, Bille exclaimed, “Denmark has really upped its game!” Vibe and I couldn’t agree more.
Bjørn Harvig is the former chairman of the Adventurers’ Club and the author of several travel books, including VELO – The Danish World Cyclists and UNKNOWN LAND – The Final Frontier. He is also the host of the National Museum’s podcast The Final Frontier, which explores expeditions and discoveries.
